October 7-12
Returning back to school was a rough transition, but actually I think my Spanish was the best it has been at this point! While staying in Brazil, it was difficult to learn another language from scratch in a short period of time. Portuguese is not easy either. So I bought a little book of common Portuguese expressions translated for Spanish speakers. It was great practice! Also, as I mentioned, the two owners of our hostel were from Chile originally, so I had to speak to them the whole time in Spanish to communicate, as they did not know much English! It was awesome, and they were hilarious to talk to. I had to drop the whole Porteno accent however, which was another adjust to get back into when I returned!
This week we had Marion Froehlich visit from San Diego, the woman who coordinated the entire program. For the past year I have been talking to her on and off, planning for this trip, and having interviews and updates about the possibility of me coming to Buenos Aires to study abroad. And now, she was visiting all of us as we were passed our half way point! She’s awesome; there were a few issues between ECELA and us, so it was pretty cool to see Marion come and fix them right away with no sweat. The program itself has been awesome for me, but some other students are kind of unhappy due to the rules and actions of the school we are studying in. Overall, my experience is perfect. There are definitely things I did not expect and that I had to get used to (like eating microwaved dinner occasionally, not eating very many vegetables or in general not eating healthier, laundry not being included in the homestay, eating alone and a few other minor things) and a few things I hope change, but nothing that ever made my trip anything less than amazing. I don’t want to blame anyone for my trip sucking anyway (if it did) because it’s up to me to make it what I want it to be!
My anthropology professor invited me over for dinner this week. He has an awesome apartment that has an amazing terrace view of a large chunk of his neighborhood, northern Recoleta. I went with Ryan Robinson and 
Beau, two friends I have had from City College. We all worked together on a few different projects this past year at SDCC, including the Conference for International Relief Organizations (CIRO) (www.ciroatcitycollege.org ) and a bunch of Amnesty International work and participation with the yacht 2041 (http://www.2041.com/), among a ton of other work we have all done together at that school. I can’t help but feel that I earned this trip from all of this hard work, especially since my whole time in Buenos Aires was paid for by scholarships that I applied for. Steve had a lot to say and show about his trip to Patagonia, including encounters with penguins, Orca Whales, Elephant Seals and the amazing landscape of Southern Argentina.
This week, for our Life and Cultures class, we were taught about the Gaucho and their role in Argentine history. These guys are pretty interesting, as they seem to have a lot of significance in Argentine history as well as its society today as nationalistic figures for the Argentine identity. They are roughly equivalent to cowboys that were found in the United States during the 1800s, as they existed in the same time and also lived in rural landscapes where they rode horses, hunted and hearded cows. The gauchos still live in the Pampas area of Argentina, which are like fertile South American lowlands. There is a romantic perspective of the Gauchos in Argentine culture and another opinion of contempt for the gauchos. The nomadic and simple lifestyle of the gauchos is what seems to appeal to the people. They were like forgotten people as civilization began, and they just roamed the countryside and lived for themselves. They were either Criollo (Latin American born but of Spanish descent) or Mestizo (Indian and Spanish descent mixed). Gauchos were free, they didn’t have restraints of slaves of poor populations, and they had no pressure to fight the stratifications in Argentina. They just lived. There lifestyle began to also stand as the opponent to the corrupt government who were bringing i
n more European influence. The gauchos weren’t going to have it; these nationalistic figures preserved Argentine cultural identity and authenticity. On the other hand, many of the gauchos were looked at as criminals as they stole from farmers and anyone else they could, they didn’t own anything and gained no respect from the people, and they also mistreated women on often occasion. The cool story about the gauchos is that they may have actually introduced Yerba Mate to the masses, now a huge part of Argentine and Uruguayan cultures. Mate is a finely chopped green tea that has natural caffeine. You drink it through a mate gourd with a bombilla (a, typically metal, mate straw). Because of its high natural caffeine content, it was a huge part of the Gaucho diet because of the little food they got to eat outside of the beef they cattled. The coolest skill they have is their precision with horse riding. They say they spent so much time on horses, that their legs began to round out like two ends of a wishbone. We followed this up with a trip to an estancia, an las pampas, a couple hours outside of Buenos Aires, the following weekend.
This weekend was a 3 day weekend, so I enjoyed Buenos Aires parks, fairs, cafes and of course awesome bars and clubs. I also checked out the Botanical Garden here. ECELA also offers conversation classes, so I attended one on the Monday we had off for an Argentine holiday. It was actually really cool, as it was set up so that we just talked for over a couple of hours about politics and the economic crisis with wall street that was affecting the world.
October 13-20
This was the week of Globalization, Nationalism and Cultural Authenticity. My perception of Buenos Aires has changed immensely since I have arrived. My classes are educating the ignorance out of me and challenging what I think I know about Latin America and the world. In the beginning, Argentina was just another Latin American country. Before I arrived, I imagined to see people starved everywhere, to see ethic wear fashioned around by the people and to overall be shocked by exotic culture and underdevelopment. When I actually arrived, I was surprised to learn how parallel Argentine history and current society is with that of the United Stated. I started to realize the huge differences as I found myself in so many interesting situations, like a women breast feeding on the bus, cab drivers almost running me down, the European styled cafes that lined every corner, the sicknesses everyone in my group has experienced, male and female dancers in clubs fully exposing their genitals, the cheek-kissing for hellos, the abrupt kisses planted on me by strangers in clubs-male and female, and even the dirty war from the 1970s and 80s that no body will talk about. I have started to piece together a better idea of what Argentina is, and understand who, what and how Latin America is.
In this weeks class we learned about TANGO! Since I have been here, I saw a show on the street (which are extremely impressive!), but still haven’t really had the tango experience until this week. I realized I have a new love to learn this dance. Since I have been here, I have been learning Salsa and Rock-N-Roll style dancing and loving them. But Tango is different; it’s slower, “mas suave” and there love and passion in place of lust that is found the sexy twists and turns of salsa. There is more intimacy involved and a different kind of expression. It would be awesome to have a really hot wife that knew how to Tango. . .
On Thurday the 16th we went to a Milonga, a place where they dance Tango, and we experienced the huge role this dance holds within this culture. Being a bunch of goofy Americans, we stood out in the serious Tango atmosphere as they gave us a show and attempted to teach us steps to the slow romantic dance. It felt a little awkward at first, but then I loosened into the groove and practiced my Spanish while learning how to dance a foreign dance. Fun! I definitely did not look as good as the milogueros who were gliding around the dance floor. It probably did not help that we were all absurdly drunk while trying to learn! I was not really as drunk, because I had arrived later after my Yoga class. It was hysterical to see some of the others, but also pretty embarrassing as they starting pissing off Argentines. It will be cool after the program to travel away from a big group of people. It will be easier to disguise myself and indulge in culture a little more.
The next day we followed up the lesson with a class on Tango history. It was cool to finally learn the terminology and a little about the history, such as “Salon Tango” where they learn on each other like an “A” as they glide around, and Milongo style with more tricks and fast pace. I had no idea that Tango had roots in prostitution and was popular with the poor in the beginning. Basically, the culture for Tango started around the 1930s, and its place in the limelight grew worldwide with Tango stars like Carlos Gardel. The images, songs and films remind me that of Frank Sinatra and culture in the United States at the same time. The teacher was a Tango dancer herself, and pointed out the difference in style that evolved through the 1900s to the present. It really has had its place in Argentine culture, as it was introduced and represented the poor classes, then transitioned into a dance with high social importance, which then turned into a tradition to rebel against in the 1960s and 1970s. The revival of Tango in the 1990s with the new style of electric Tango brings a new place for the day old tradition in a contemporary context. Now its just really cool if you do know Tango, and very respected.
I also went to a dance class that my history teacher runs. It was hilarious! It was like dance aerobics, with a lot of reggeton, booty shaking and Latin women. I never felt more white (or latino) in my life.
This weekend was the birthday of my good friend Ryan Robinson, on Friday the 17th. We celebrated after the tango lesson on Thurday with Champagne at a hip “Puv” (Pub) in Palermo, where you can find a ton of cool restaurants and bars, as well art, music and interesting people. Afterwards, we went to one of our favorite hip-hop boliches Araoz, that sport some amazing break dancing. Friday night we had dinner over his host mothers house. I think he has the best homestay. His parents are so nice, and so eager, but patient, to talk to you. It was awesome practice for Spanish. They dressed up, with the 
father in a tux, and made dinner for Ryan and six of his friends. Awesome home made empanadas, soup with mouth watering beef, a ton of wine and salad. She even made him an awesome whisky dulce de leche cake! Their house is comfortable to me, crammed with a ton of trinkets, furniture and photos like my mom’s house in Ohio.
Sunday we went to an estancia, where Gauchos still “exist” today. I have learned from locals that these people are as authentic as they claim to be. The Gaucho culture and customs were all packaged up and presented to us as if they still live like this today. It reminded me of Amish country in Ohio, where I grew up. There were places I used to go with my family when I was younger that were supposedly run by real Amish, but it was clear they did not follow any of the Amish Ordnung. There are authentic Amish residences in Ohio and Pennsylvania however, so I am sure the same goes for these estancias. I think it would counter their lifestyle anyway to invite dozens of city-goers onto the farm every weekend anyway. It was fun and beautiful though. They greeted us with fresh made empanadas and home made wine when we arrived. We were out in the open with countryside landscape and bright greens everywhere. It was such a beautiful day; I was just happy to be there. We got to ride horses, which was a good experience to have here in Argentina since most of the population lives on open land like this with horses.
We also watched a Gaucho horse show where they race their horses to the metal rod that hangs over head of the track, and on it dangles a ring tied to a string, and the Gauchos race their horses fast towards it and manage their position on the horse, while they flick a small metel rod through the ring. It was actually really impressive to watch. Lunch was sooo much meat, home made ice cream and a delicious salad. They put on this rad dance show as well that demonstrated all of the dances from different provinces throughout the country with traditional dress (which looks more like Amish clothing then the tribal South American dress that I imagined months ago). When I returned home, it was actually “el dia de las madres” or mothers day in English (remember, it’s spring here!) I brought my host mom flowers for the occasion.
Gauchos dancing different dances from various regions of Argentina. Here they dance "tango" from Buenos Aires.
Paulu Bouscaren, my Anthro professor's son
October 21-26
This week the dreaded Yawar Fiesta critical review was due. For my anthropology class, I had to read the book Yawar Fiesta and write a report on it with the theme of the Rural Urban Continuum and its affects on Indigenous populations. Basically, it follows the classic story of the Americas: Europe arrives, settles, and seizes the land from the natives, people who have lived on and known the land to be their own for generations. In the town of Puquio, Peru, the novels setting, there evolved a stratified caste system, where the Indians were placed at the bottom. As if things could not be more unfair for those with indigenous roots, the white elite of the community now fought throughout the novel to take control over their sacred annual tradition of the Yawar Fiesta, bloody clebration in Quechua, where they released a massive bull in a ring and chased it around until they blow it up with dynamite (cultural relativism people. . . don’t judge so quickly). Anyway, as fascinating as it is and relative to my major, all I wanted to do last week was explore the city more and be with new friends! It has been so hard to stay in school mode. The program consumes so much time with classes, trips and homework, that I can’t wait for it to end! I do realize that the things I am learning are going to affect the rest of my education, and honestly changing my life in more ways then relieving ignorance. I am more than ever confident in my decision in anthropology and I am developing more understanding for the complex issues I will face in applied anthropology as I hope to be more active with what I will learn at Berkeley.
On Wednesday, we went to Café Tortoni and I experienced my first real staged Tango performance and had the complete experience of a Tango show in Buenos Aires. This the one experience we had all anticipated before the trip. Its funny I didn’t see one until the end leg of the program, as Buenos Aires is so much more to me than Tango now. But, this is what people knew as normal here. However, at one point they asked the crowd who was actually Argentine, a question few understood in Spanish and that no body responded yes to. So now I also understand Tango as a tourist attraction and part of the superficial culture of Argentina, but not definable of all its people. It was pretty cool to watch though, with a lot of flashy moves to keep your attention. And the girls were so hot! We all skipped out on homework to do this. It was necessary, but also expensive (this was one of the cheaper ones, about AR$75).
Thursday was one of the coolest experiences I have had in Buenos Aires. I visited the march of “las Madres de la Plaza de Mayo.” Every Thursday a group of (now older) women have marched at la Plaza de Mayo (“May Square”) the square in front of La Casa Rosada, or the house of the government (like the White House in the States). They have done this for thirty-one years since what is known as “la guerra sucia,” or dirty war, of the military dictatorship that ran Argentina from 1976-1983. For an explanation, read this paragraph, or skip to the next one. . . .
[Probably the darkest era in its history that is still affecting its citizens today is known as “la guerra sucia,” or, “the dirty war” in English. From roughly 1976-1983 this period of history for Argentina marked a dictatorship style government that ran the country through the military with intentions of obliterating the existence of its Leftist radical party, with hopes of restoring order and control over Argentine land and citizens. Massive human rights violations, along with the disappearance of thousands of people, were practiced by the government, as well as the oppression and total control of its people with new social policies hurting popular sectors with privatized health care, lowered wages and laws against women rights. Although a shameful period for the brilliant Latin American culture, a light of hope countered the darkness as a group of effected individuals rose to fight the injustice of the government against all odds. This social group came to create one of the most powerful and known human rights group today: Las Madres de la Plaza de Mayo.] (I wrote this in my paper, I didn’t steal it from anywhere. . .)
The march was rad, as the women still carry signs and voice their opinion of current injustices domestically and cross-globally. They defend others to defend themselves, a pretty rad message. They march to find the locations of their missing children, and still hold pictures of the “desaparecidos” that have been gone for thirty or more years. Women that still march have been doing this every single Thursday for 31 years. That’s 1,612 marches, not including the protests and demonstrations elsewhere around the world that they have organized. What started as 14 mothers gathering in front of the Pink House and asking for the whereabouts of their children turned into demonstrations with thousands, and today they have a huge global presence and one of the leading womens and humans rights organizations in the world. This is all that I was witnessing.
The dirty war is an interesting period that I can’t seem to fully understand. I try to ask questions, but still, today, no body will talk about it. Learning about mass immigration from Europe in the turn of the century, to the Peron Movement and what Evita and Juan came to be to the people of the working class in the 1940s with huge social changes among the population, to the Dirty War of the 1970s, to the Malvinas War with Britain in the 1980s, to the final installation of democracy in the 1980s (so recent in history!!!) and to a point where the dollar and peso were equal in the 1990s, and to the very recent economic collapse of the peso in 2001, all the way to where we are now, with a female president and influences from all of these very recent historical elements playing a role in how people live here in Buenos Aires and around the country. All I know is that the dirty war was a scary time, where Videla and his regime masqueraded what was murder and injustice in all aspects of their rule. All of this under the whole world nose, right here, where I am living.
We learned a little about Argentine art this week. I was a little late for this class, so I didn’t get much of what we were talking about. But the field trip to “Bellas Artes Buenos Aires” was pretty rad. So many famous artists have traveled to Buenos Aires and around Argentina during its history and left masterpieces behind here; it was pretty rad to see. It has been a while since I have been in a good museum with worthy art and beautiful paintings. I felt right at home, and it reminded me of my time working in the Cleveland Museum of Art. There was an impressive modern art area as well that tripped me out. I felt really inspired after seeing it all. For the first time I also saw a Diego Riviera painting!
Unbelievably, here I am in my last week at school in Buenos Aires. I have trouble believing that the end is here. I have become so comfortable with the city, so close with my friends on the program and my teachers at my school, and just started to meet awesome new friends. I have had homework all week long as well, so its hard to enjoy my time here without stressing over papers and tests. But no matter how this week goes, this experience has already made an unforgettable impression on me. 
Recognize that mouse? If guessed the president of the most powerful country in the world, unfortunately you're correct. I guess that shows you what other people around the world think of our president!
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